[Photograph: Daniel Gritzer]. The first step here is to sear the meat until it's browned, then transfer it to a plate while you sauté the vegetables. My conversion came at a narrow lunch counter called Kitchen Nankai in Jinbocho, a Tokyo neighborhood famous for its bookstore-lined streets. By 1747, curry had made its first appearance in an English cookbook, Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. I could see that turmeric made up the largest portion of the mix, followed by coriander seed and then fenugreek—the spice used to flavor artificial pancake syrup, famously responsible for New York City's mysterious maple syrup odor about 10 years ago. The basic technique would be largely the same, except for the cooking time, which would be longer for beef or pork. If you're not interested in that, you might as well grab a tin of the premade stuff off a Japanese-market shelf. I'm always out to prove myself wrong, so one of my goals on that trip was to find a Japanese kare that could make me truly love it. She directed her broadside equally at British, American, Chinese, and French renditions of curry, all of which feature a generic and often stale blend of Indian-esque spices. The apple, or another sweet component like it, is something a lot of kare recipes call for, and it's partly responsible for that accessibly sweet flavor that's so common to Japanese curry. As I promised in my adobong talong post, here is, although a few days late, my take on kare-kare.. In the south of India, there's kari, a saucy preparation that's often identified as the source of the English word, but, according to Raghavan Iyer in 660 Curries, even that is open for debate. That's a useful step, given that some of the flavor and aroma molecules in spices are fat-soluble. Diminutive burritos as they're made in Sononra, Mexico. https://www.greedygourmet.com/recipes-by-cooking-times/kare-kare The next level up in weeknight-dinner convenience is trays of the spice blend set in blocks of solidified roux—cook the meat and vegetables, add water or broth, then melt the blocks into it until a thickened, flavorful sauce forms. It mostly confirmed what the S&B tin was already telling me, though Just Hungry had found a Japanese-language source with the approximate percentage of each spice used in S&B, which they translated into English. The most important thing to remember about this spice mix is that you don't need to replicate mine exactly. Given that I had pushed my spice profile in a more aggressive direction, that base note of fruity sweetness was even more important here. I ate a whole bunch of these in the service of writing this article. To me, they were as perfectly tame as curry could ever be, which is to say, perfectly forgettable. These days, you can buy S&B and other Japanese curry products in a number of forms. I also left with a new sense of just how much of a range of flavor is possible in Japanese curry without betraying the essence of the dish. It's this more generic conception of curry, and the powdered convenience product that fuels it, that leads us back to Japanese curry.
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